Letter from the Editor:        

This issue:     Collecting Mabel and Product Development

This issue hits on some advanced theories to refine what we have learned, but will not harm the newbie to try to grasp the concepts.  People who have followed my work, and make lotion and bath bombs in their kitchen already, will know what I am talking about.  Many have sent me "breakthroughs" which were cool, I tested and found to be true and I do relay in this issue.  I also invented a few neat things myself noted herein.  For the new people, I do not have time to answer every e-mail I get, unless it is unique and I know the answer is not in my free in my archives, books and/or DVDs.  The top photo depicts my first retail line I discuss also in this new issue.  If anything it will inspire you when you build your own.  Click here for my archived work that covers basics.  Yes, Easter is coming and you can use those empty plastic eggs as bath bomb molds.  We are doing that and using sugar candy and icing to decorate them. 

     The next issue we will be talking about how people start their own day spas and what is involved, passion party favorite products, as well as how to make your own tinctures and extracts.  MWHL is really heading toward the spa direction because everyone needs to take care of themselves, regardless of what is going on in their life.  In fact, the more stress they have, the more they need to take time out.

Making the Perfect Bath Bomb Notes and PDF

    A few of my customers have been seriously involved with perfecting their bath bombs, so I joined the e-mail dialog and effort.  I happen to have needed a new stash and I like to vary in shapes.  I had never discussed letting finished bath bombs set out to dry overnight, primarily because I always used fragrance oil, or hard, but warm oils to snow ball them together—not water.  A bath bomb guru in London told me he used rubbing alcohol at “finish” to make his seriously huge bombs. He pointed out the alcohol evaporates, leaving his shape intact.  He also pointed out a dash of kaolin clay helps them to dry out.  It works great making them dry and very hard.  But I will use a tad less alcohol that I mentioned in my PDF.  Like I may use 1 Tablespoon of Water with 1 Tablespoon of Alcohol instead of 2 Tablespoons of just rubbing alcohol.  The reason is because the end product does tend to smell like rubbing alcohol.   Click here for PDF Instructions to make perfect bath bombs.  I still have great success adding my fragrance with a pipette when they are all dry.  This does not disturb the ball structure and allows me much more variety than committing one whole batch to one scent.  POST NOTE ON USE OF CLAY:  It works great--but makes the bathtub look very dirty when done.  It looks like "Linus" in Charlie Brown bathed in the tub.)  DRD

     A work in progress to the right.  Click thumbnail for details.  I purchased tiny tart molds, like $6 for 12 of them from a kitchen supply store.  I use them to prop and dry my bath bombs overnight.  The following day I scent and decorate some.  Vanilla is so universal, I can almost use a little of that in the mix and still leave room open for therapeutics such as Tangerine and Ginger, or Eucalyptus, Spearmint and Lime.  Rosemary and Lavender Essential oils are great for relaxation and body aches.  The same principles are applied to bath salts.

     I did forget to mention one more neat thing I do.  In a rush, I will buy Epsom salts in a pouch type bag from the pharmacy.  When I get home I will drop essential oils in the bag and mix them around.  What essential oils I use vary greatly upon what the goal is.  Anyone dealing in 9-5 jobs loves the rosemary and Bulgarian lavender to be sure.  If they are sick I also give them the Eucalyptus, Spearmint and Lime.  The Lime just picks up their spirits, it is the Eucalyptus that helps the cold/flu.

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Making Perfect Labels

     This is so easy I cannot believe no one told me.  All you do is spray your labels with a clear gloss spray paint meant for wood.  The kind you can get at Home Depot.  Just spray moving quickly, evenly and thin.  Allow them to dry and your labels will not run when water goes across them.  This is true for white as well as clear labels.  To secure round labels, just buy from the Avery site.  Few office supply stores have them.  The Avery Label program is great and a basis for any bath product endeavor.  As I mentioned in previous issues, your object may be so small--such as lip balm, you may want a stand up clear pouch to package it in.  This really opens the door to more product description and your "story."

 

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Lotion Notes:  Using More Water and Less Oil

     I was at a huge health food store in the lotion section. A man was really trying to find the best lotion for dry skin and was having a hard time.  He was a nurse.  I thought it would be easy and grabbed the old classics.  Looking on the back, I was surprised to see even the old classics listed water as the main ingredient; some had mineral oil and/or alcohol somewhere in the mix.  Not one started out with “Sweet Almond Oil” and you know some of them used to.  Out of 30 some odd lotions I could not find one quality one to help him.  I only felt better I teach what quality is and how to make our own since it is obvious we are being cornered by commercialism, even at our high end health food stores.  Water should not be the first ingredient if you are paying some $10 for 8 ounces.  POST NOTE:  Many people were confused on which position I am taking.  To make it clear, a high water content is fine and saves us money, as long as the oil part is not cheap stuff--such as mineral oil.  I prefer more water than oil in my lotion in the hot months.

    I like to change my formulas for Winter/Summer.  Summer should have more hardeners for balm (so it does not melt in the car) and more water and less oil for skin products such as lotion.  Oil based lotions are great in the winter to keep your moisture in.  During a dry summer you skin needs a drink and I prefer a water based lotion at that point.  Florida just went through a very unusual dry spell and I was itching everywhere.  We are spoiled and used to super humid conditions.  My solution resulted in a few approaches.  Moisturizing bath bombs full of Shea with a Jojoba, Avocado and Sesame bath oil Rose Knight sent me, AND making sure to slather lotion on when I got out of the tub.  All of that did work and I stopped itching.  Dry lips were suddenly an issue and you cannot lick them. It truly makes things worse.  Protect your lips with a balm or gloss.   Most importantly drink plenty of good old water.  Welcome Aloe...

    Recently I saw a gallon of Aloe Vera Juice (Basically Water) for like $7 at Sam’s Club.  That seemed to be a great coup for making lotion and just using Aloe Vera for the entire water portion. While on that idea, I determined to try to use less oil in my lotion formula and more water by far.  Good oils can be expensive.  Instead of doing a 50/50 water/oil as I learned how to do initially, I dropped to 80% Water and 20% oil like most commercial lotions make anyway.  But my quality of oil is much better by far.  I still used ½ a bar of EmulSoy and got a great lotion.  The EmulSoy is still so great, I was very remise to add any beeswax.  I added 5%beeswax and got crème when I was aiming for lotion.  All I could say about those results is I did a great thing when I invented EmulSoy.  I invented that because I do not like having to measure powdered emulsifiers, and I wanted to go by a structured easy formula each time.  The only thing I want to worry about is what neat stuff to put in.   

The Water/Oil Lotion Method

     For those who follow that system, 1/2 a bar of EmulSoy was still awesome.  Instead of using 18 ounces of water and 18 ounces of oil, I used 30 ounces of Aloe Juice and 6 Ounces of Oil and it came out to be splendid lotion.  Easy to pump.  You can use sterile water, it need not be aloe juice, FYI. You really do need Borax on hand to soften the water.  My water does change from soft to hard a few times a year so my results varied. Better safe than sorry.  Borax is a salt that helps make the oil take and you can get a huge box of it as Mule Team.   I put a few Tablespoons in the hot water par before I start blending the oil in.    I plan to work with coconut milk next, which is a water based item,  but I have to figure out if spoilage is an issue.  In London. LUSH used coconut milk in their melt and pour soap.  I am sure not a lot, but it sounded exciting.  I am not sure what if anything, is needed to preserve the state of the coconut milk.  Coconut Milk was shown to me in So Ho as having fantastic antimicrobial and anti-bacterial properties.

     Aloe Vera Gel can also be used in the water part and that is also excellent and affordable even at the natural health food store level.  To buy a lotion with that much real aloe Vera would almost be unheard of, not to mention oils more high end than sweet almond.  To the right is my bee pollen crème made with the 80% aloe water theory and 20% bee pollen oil.

     Making our own lotion, a few weeks ago, we did remind ourselves the “back splash” off the blender is the most daring part.  You do have to hold that lid down and wear mitts in case you get splashed.  And you do have to tell your husband to keep on walking.  Curious husbands are truly to blame for ½ of all kitchen mishaps.

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Collector's Discussion:  I am not sure who got the idea that my work would ever be of "collector's" value, (not even signed,) but now I see why.  Seven years ago, someone knew it was pretty inevitable that I would grow and those "old books" would be replaced with "better" books.  I may even make one good solid one for Barnes and Noble with truly perfected recipes across the board. I did not even think about such things until they did happen.  *FYI, I do not have any share, holding, or vested interest in any Mabel "collector's" material.  I do not even wish I did, because I only take my imperfect material off line.  Information I feel no longer correct or making way for new techniques and easier methods as technology changes.  Even with that, I cannot help the material from being considered "collectors" by groups who choose to do so. 

This article is to make my customers aware that companies dealing in Collector(s) items are selling my books, not even signed for well over $190+.  I also have not seen a singed one yet for sale.  I am a little interested because I actually did not sign that many, maybe 500 copies total. If this interests you--hang on to your books this year.  This article alone may cause a sudden temporary excess on the market, because I have a million readers.  *If I promised to sign a book and did not--you can send it back and I will sign it.  My health was up and down late 2005 and just a few people that were promised signed copies--did not get signed copies.  Customers trying to be nice did not mention it--but my shipping staff is aware some were not signed.  Write me here about that with a proper subject title and I will be happy to accommodate.

I am happy to report a few weeks ago, I took everything off Amazon--(although they are not so quick to reflect all of my changes--I know we are not speed demons either)--which rendered most of my prior books as "discontinued" to start fresh.  Basically, anything prior to the metric system being inserted is a good indicator the former version of the book has been discontinued.  The new books have both U.S. standard of weights and measurements, as well as Metric, and I feel are far more valuable to the learning process and being accepted globally.  Although no book was ever "photo heavy" they were, and always will be, content rich.   Mabel formulas are being taught in the Canadian and UK school systems, oddly, before being well received in the States.  A few die hard Mabel collectors have printed and kept anything I ever wrote over the last seven years in a binder.  I do wish those people worked for me!  I will need Amazon savvy people for the new book descriptions.  Hint. hint.  Written by people who own the books.  Write me here about that and put a proper subject title.

As for the books--they have changed so much--it was easier to pull them off line, set new descriptions and make way for new editions.  I did not entertain the metric system in my work pre-2006, and the new books are clearly marked "Second Edition" from here on out. Since I also own the publishing company, I also know what is "available."  Very little of the non-metric stuff.  The main books that got a face lift? The London Apothecary, The Bathroom Chemist, Self Apothecary, Melt and Pour Soaps, Natural Soap Maker, Maid Holistic,  Floral Design, and Making Heavily Scented Candles.    Totally struck and no longer for sale, Baby Let's Eat, and Traditional American Indian Recipes.  Almost done and high in demand:  The Beekeepers Manual and The London Apothecary DVD.   People waiting on the London DVD will get a signed Beekeepers manual for the wait.  I am not adding any more titles until I finish the obvious. After the London DVD and Beekeepers Manual are done--I will be focused on doing short video clips people can order right away on their PC. This is known as Mabel on Demand or "Soft Copy." Our Hard Copy DVD's will remain in replication for schools and vocational rehab centers.  In 2006 Mabel will not focus on hard copy, but on "soft copy" of books and videos--which are known as--e-books and PC video's. I find it is the same profit either way, and extra work to go hard copy.    This is good for those people that have what few hard copies were ever printed.  More so, when signed.

For a signed copy of the Beekeepers Manual still pending its first print, click here.  At this time that seems to be one of the last hard copy Mabel books we see being available as we shift our focus to soft copy.  Because of that I am willing to sign each beekeepers manual that is sold in this first print.

Good luck and have fun!  Click here for a cool song by Anna Nalick.  I call it 2:00 AM, but the name is Breathe.  Another song she wrote Wreck of the Day is great, just best to buy the CD.

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Early American Apothecary by D.R. Dolen

This month I have been immersed in product development and finally, after seven years, finishing design.  I discuss some of my best findings in this issue.  I found you really cannot visit product development in bath and toiletries until you have studied the old masters, as I have above.  That is my collection of Early American Apothecary to the right.  Click thumbnail to see the cool old medicines.   "The main thread between old Apothecary and new Apothecary seem to be Camphor, Eucalyptus and Menthol oil."  Back then, as well as now, those three items are sold under many brands for many ailments."  I bought all of these old medicines on e-Bay for about $7 each.  I also kept my mouth shut so I was not competing with my own customers and friends on e-Bay.  Now done, my favorite is Ben-Gay as back then it read clearly Dr. Bengue' 16 Rue Ballu, Paris.   Click photo for more detail.   The Rosebud Salve is cute also because one says 25 Cents and the other 50 Cents.   These days they would cost $5 easy.

In The London Apothecary I discuss Early American apothecary and found Camphor, Eucalyptus, and Menthol were and still are, major components of any true healing balm, salve, liniment,  preparation, or ointment.  My second favorite in my collection is the Midol, Circa 1900.  Yep, I bet back then women in PMS were allowed morphine or "opiates" as Coca Cola was allowed a lot of latitude as far back as 1903 having 60 mg of cocaine or more in each bottle.  No, that is not why I buy that old stuff!  Thank you. But truly interesting.